Solfari : Places : Endurance : Valparaiso



After the short 2 hour bus ride from Santiago, I grabbed a taxi to the Brighton Bed and Breakfast where I would be staying for 4 nights.  

The streets wind and weave in every direction making it difficult to get from one point to the next without a good map.  Luckily, my taxi driver was able to manuever us to Cerro Concepcion, the hill on which Brighton resides.

It was obvious that the driver had never been to Brighton because he parked his car and admired the view while turning and giving me the thumbs up sign.  It would not be the last thumbs up that I received.

Cerro Concepcion - Valparaiso, Chile
Cerro Concepcion Facing East
Valparaiso, Chile

Email
Photo

Cerro Concepcion - Valparaiso, Chile
Cerro Concepcion Facing West
Valparaiso, Chile
Email
Photo
Brighton Bed and Breakfast is a gorgeous yellow a framed building that sits as one of the city's landmark spots.  About 200 feet above the business district and easily accessible by Ascensor Concepcion, the bright yellow exterior is visible from the beaches of Valparaiso.

I had lunch one afternoon sitting on the patio that overlooks the city.  My waitress had only been studying English for a year but she was quite good at it.  She was one of the few English speakers that I met during the entire time in Valparaiso.

With Brighton as my launching point, I set out to find the local Irish pub for any city with as important a port as Valaparaiso was and with as many places named after it's founder, O'Higgins, would surely have a good Irish pub!

Initially, I started walking back towards the bus station, looking up and down all of the side streets in search of that elusive Guiness sign, much like searching for christmas gifts in late December while your parents are away.  In spite of the intense late summer sun bearing down, the cool ocean breeze kept the air temperature a very comfortable 75 degrees.


I arrived at the bus station without crossing paths with my elusive prey and returned towards Brighton on a different street in an attempt to change my odds.  Unfortunately, I had no luck and decided to review my Lonely Planet for assistance.  Interestingly, there was a bar that I had noticed but forgotten about: Bar Ingles.

Valparaiso Architecture - Valparaiso, Chile
Valparaiso Architecture
Valparaiso, Chile
Email
Photo
Would an English pub do as a replacement for an Irish pub?  I quickly gathered my things and left to find out!  

After walking up and down the same street 4 or 5 times, I finally realized that there was a non-descript door that was Bar Ingles.  I cheerfully entered to find quite an authentic English looking pub.  

However, after a few minutes I realized that this was not going to be the congregation place for the hundreds of English speakers in Valpo.  It was about 6:30 pm and there were only 10 people at various tables with the waitresses preoccupied cleaning glasses.


Undaunted, I sat for a Coke on the rocks and began pouring over my book again in a desperate attempt to find a more suitable place for drinks.  It was not to be.  Yet, in Bar Ingles, I found something rather interesting:  an English bar that wasn't trying too hard to shun the local culture.  By that, I mean most good Irish pubs in non-English speaking countries have authentic Irish folk working there and attract loud tourists but few real locals.  Bar Ingles was definitely an English pub that had real locals working and enjoying this foreign, yet local establishment.

One of the truely memorable experiences of my Valpo stay was when I went to Bar Ingles to watch the Santiago Wanderers, the local soccer team, play Boca Juniors, the Argentine powerhouse, in the opening match of Copa Libertadores, the South American Champions League.

The people were juiced up like a lightning storm for this match and the Wanderers did not disappoint as they drew at Boca's stadium in an entertaining and unexpected result.

Rather surprisingly, on my way home that night, I met a woman from Atlanta while riding the Ascensor Concepcion back to Brighton.

Armada de Chile - Valparaiso, Chile
Armada de Chile
Valparaiso, Chile
Email
Photo


Realizing that Valparaiso was a picturesque city with beautiful hills and ascensors, I spent the rest of my stay riding the elevators up the hills.  

Valparaiso, Chile
Valparaiso Skyline
Valparaiso, Chile

Email
Photo
Valparaiso, Chile
Valparaiso Skyline
Valparaiso, Chile
Email
Photo


Continue on to Ascensors of Valparaiso



Solfari : Places : Endurance : Valparaiso
Craig Recommends