Solfari : Places : S2K : Trondheim

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In order to reach Trondheim, Norway and catch our Coastal Steamer south to Bergen, we rode the overnight train from Oslo to Trondheim. In mid June, locations this far north experience extremely long days and our timing coincided with this natural wonder. Catching the train around midnight, we watched out the window for the first hour and could still see a faint glow of sunlight emanating from the horizon.

Craig in Train Cabin
Craig Enjoying Sink Seat
Oslo to Trondheim, Norway
One of the simple joys of foreign country vacations is trying the local cuisine. One of the simple joys in riding a train is the dining car. However, these simple joys did not align completely during breakfast while arriving in Trondheim. Not since new Coke in 1986 has a consumer product successfully made it to market and received such negative feedback.

While rummaging through the dining car, at breakfast time, John and I discovered Baconost: Bacon in a tube! In classic tourist fashion, I stuffed two of them in my pocket for analysis back in the States... To date I still haven't been adventurous enough to taste it.

Craig in Train Cabin
John Modeling the Top Bunk
Oslo to Trondheim, Norway

Since we only had a 3 hour layover until the Coastal Steamer departed, John and I scurried to our 2 Trondheim destinations: Cafe Remis , a pub and discotheque coincidentally named after a local Chicago 7-11 clerk and Nidaros Domkirke, a 12 century church first built in 1070 over the grave of St. Olaf.

On the morning that we arrived, the sky drizzled enough to give the streets a slickness that made me glad that we weren't driving. We stashed our bags in one of the train station lockers and began walking through the deserted streets heading for Cafe Remis. It was a Monday morning so there should have been traffic, but given the size of Trondheim, less than 50,000, and the time of day, 8 a.m., I guess that we shouldn't have been surprised to pass less than 15 people over 10 blocks. Our first stop was Cafe Remis.


John Next To Cafe Remis
Trondheim, Norway
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Understand that Remis is one of our favorite characters at the 7-11 on the corner of Armitage and Sheffield in Chicago. In an unofficial survey conducted after 5 hours of Goose Island consumption during a post trip debriefing, Remis was our second most popular 7-11 employee trailing only Smiley, the night manager who once dressed like a homeless, colorblind pimp, drank enough liquor to put an alcoholic to shame and forgot his good bridge before attending the Buddy Guy concert. Remis is a slight, well dressed Phillipino who has a smile on his face even if he breaks a fingernail. So John and I felt that it was only right to visit his namesake establishment in such a remote location and bring back visual evidence of this magical place.

As you can probably imagine, after taking a couple of photos and conducting a virtual toast to 7-11 Remis, we looked at each other, laughed and went for the real prize of Trondheim: Nidaros Cathedral.

The drizzle falling from the extremely dark sky was a perfect backdrop for Nidaros because there are many carvings around the sides that depict some of the creatures from your worst nightmares.

Nidaros Cathedral - Monkies
Nidaros Sculpture
The carvings are haunting images, like the monkey creatures on the left and the priest holding a basket with 3 heads in it to the right. It was a very eerie feeling at the cathedral, but still an amazing cathedral to look at. John and I, unfortunately, didn't have the opportunity to look inside but I can only imagine that it is a fabulous interior as well.
Nidaros Cathedral - Priests
Nidaros Sculpture

With our narrow tourist window in Trondheim over, we went to catch the Coastal Steamer for the 30 hour ride to Bergen. The drizzle ended shortly after we boarded the cruise ship and traveled through the fjords. It's quite awe inspiring to see the land drop straight into the water and realize that you may only be viewing the 'tip of the iceberg' because the fjord continues hundreds of feet further down below the water.

Most of the people on the boat were either retired or couples with children. I don't believe that I saw another person between the ages of 20 and 35. Also suprisingly, there were many German tourists on the ship and broadcasts were made in Norwegian, English and German.

Speaking of the broadcasts, the woman who made the announcements had the most annoying voice to the point that when she spoke, it felt like scratching fingernails on a blackboard. Waking to that woman's voice is not pleasurable.

John Fighting the Wind on Coastal Steamer
John Fighting the Wind on Coastal Steamer
Coast of Norway
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Sun Shining Through Clouds in the Distance
Sun Shining Through Clouds
Coast of Norway
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As we continued throughout the day, the clouds parted and it became a gorgeous afternoon and evening. After dinner, which by the way included the best cream soup that I have ever had, we watched one of the group matches from Euro 2000. Even though the match ended at 10 pm, the sun was still in the sky and we ventured onto the deck to take a few photos before the end of the day.

Continue S2K Trip to Bergen, Norway



Solfari : Places : S2K : Trondheim

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